Friday 31 October 2008

Choose your colour the feng shui way!

With Novembers arrival comes the annual car buying season. But while selecting the type of car comes easily to most people, making a decision on the color of a car can be a stumbling block. Some people simply go with their favorite color, while others mull over color choices by considering factors such as climate, type of vehicle use, or the most practical choice, going with what is least likely to show dirt. But what if even that fails? Then try feng shui. Yes, feng shui, the Chinese guide used for arranging homes and offices, can also be used for selecting colors based on an individual’s own personal feng shui.

According to personal feng shui, each person has an individual feng shui number that is based on gender and date of birth. This number, also called a “kua” number is associated with a color. By selecting the correct color for an individual’s particular feng shui number, the driver will experience better luck over all because the color is harmonized with that individual.

Use personal feng shui to select a “success” color, which can be helpful when buying that luxury sedan. More into soccer practice than boardrooms? Choose a “family” color. Both colors are determined by the driver’s kua number. To determine the driver’s kua number, and subsequently the color of car that is appropriate, use the instructions below and then check the chart that follow for selecting a success or family color. Now, who should drive the Mary Kay pink Cadillacs? Anyone with a number 3 kua number!

The calculation is as follows:

-Take the year of birth, i.e., 1971
-Add the last two years together (7+1=8)
For men, subtract the number from 10 (10-8+2); 2 is the kua number
For women, add 5 to the number (5+8=13; 1+3= 4); 4 is the kua number
For years such as 1982 which have a double digit, be sure to reduce to one number
8+2=10 (1+0=1)
10-1=9 (Kua for men)
5+1=6 (Kua for women)

Kua Number

1
Money/Success Colors: Green, Purple
Family Colors: Red, Purple, Burgundy

2
Money/Success Colors: Yellow, Brown, Beige
Family Colors: Silver, Gold, White, Pearl

3
Money/Success Colors: Red, Pink, Burgundy
Family Color: Green

4
Money/Success Colors: Blue, Black, Purple
Family Colors: Dark Green, Brown

5
Money/Success Colors: Yellow, Brown, Beige
Family Colors:Gray, Silver, Gold, White

6
Money/Success Colors: Gray, Silver, White
Family Colors: Yellow, Brown, Beige

7
Money/Success Colors: Gold, Silver, White/Pearl
Family Colors: Yellow, Brown, Beige

8
Money/Success Colors: Yellow, Brown, Beige
Family Colors: Gold, Silver, Gray, White

9
Money/Success Colors: Color Dark Green, Brown
Family Colors: Blue, Black, Purple

Making That Offer

Before you make an offer you need to find a dealer with the car you want. You have three options in doing this.

Drive around all day and night searching for a dealer who has the car you want.
Spend countless hours online finding local dealers who have websites. And THEN spend more time digging through their websites to find your new car.
Fill out a request form online and have a dealer contact you if he or she has the car you are looking for. This option alone can save you hours of your valuable time.
So you know what you want, you know what it costs, and you where to find it, so how do you go about getting it? First and foremost is getting into a negotiating frame of mind. Always remember you can walk out at anytime and leave your offer on the table. Dealers want you to buy right then and there. They play on your impulses and try to rush you into a deal. Don't play their game; it's not the end of the world if you don't buy right then and there.

Before leaving the house: When you go to the dealer have all your research documents with you incase you have to review anything. It's always nice to have supporting information when you are trying to get the lowest price.

While at the dealer: Be calm and pleasant, treat the salesperson with respect. He is a working stiff just like you. You will get nowhere being arrogant because you know the true invoice pricing or other details about the dealers pricing.

Making the offer: Explain to the salesman that you have researched the dealer's invoice price and any incentives they get from selling the car and you have calculated the price you are willing to pay. How much over invoice should you offer? 4% - 6% has been a good number. I would offer 4% over invoice if you trust the dealerships service department and plan on getting your car serviced there. Why offer them less if you like their service? Well they will end up making more money on your in the end by servicing your car. Make sure you mention this to the salesman; it's a good bargaining chip.

What next? Wait......... if they do not take the deal, politely leave your name and phone number and go home. Better yet go to another dealer and see if they are willing to take your offer. Remember you can always go back and they can always call you when they realize you will not be buying on impulse and really mean business. You have spent hours researching, why throw that away buy getting nervous and signing a deal you do not feel is fair.

Finishing the deal

Congratulations !!!! You got the deal you were looking for. Now is the perfect time to mention to the dealer that you are looking to trade in that car you are currently driving. This way they cannot jack up the new car costs and offer you more for your car to make it seem like a better deal. If your trade-in is in good shape you should be looking for a price somewhere between retail and wholesale. If your car is spotless make sure the dealer knows he will not have to recondition it. Most research sites list trade-in value in the pricing reports, this is a good starting point. If your trade-in is less than perfect don't expect more than wholesale price. The dealers will take clunkers but they end up on the auction block the next week.

Once all the numbers are crunched and the papers are filled out double check everything before you sign. Also look out for extras, which you do not need. Rust proofing is rarely needed as most manufacturers already offer a rust warranty. Also window etching, extended warranties and accent packages are highly overpriced and sometimes useless.

Now would also be a good time to inspect the vehicle one last time. Check for paint blemishes, how much gas is in the car (some dealers will actually empty the tank leaving you just enough gas to get to the closest station) and that it is the exact model you test drove.

Now sign the papers and drive home in your new car. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

After buying the car..

Enjoy your car... that's simple huh? Well it's not really that simple. Here is a list of things to think about after the sale.


Notify your insurance agent about the new car.

Read the entire owners manual. Familiarize yourself with the service requirements. Understand when you need to change oil, filters, and other major things like timing belt and driveline fluids.

Get used to operating the heating/AC controls and the radio so you do not have to fumble around and risk an accident while on the highway.

Pop the hood and find the oil filler cap, the oil dipstick. If you bought a car with an automotive transmission there will be a dipstick for the transmission fluid also.

Find the spare tire and jack. Make sure you know where to jack the car when changing a tire and how to remove the spare when you need it. There is nothing worse than getting a flat tire in a new car and having to struggle to change it the first time.

Accessorize! It's your car and it should make a statement about you. There are plenty of aftermarket items to make your new car unique like yourself. Wheels, bug guards, window visors and more are all available at part houses like CarParts.com

Thursday 30 October 2008

Remember This when Buying the car

Buying a new car is the second most expensive thing most consumers buy. Next to houses of course. That is why it is important to know all the tips on making car buying easy and less stressful. Think about the car model and features you will want. Also think about how much you are willing to spend and STICK TO IT. Car salesmen are almost always paid on commission which means all they want is your purchase. Also, don’t be hasty or feel rushed into making a decision. If you are not sure about something, come back later.

Check books and magazines at the library or surf the internet for useful information on prices and features for the car you want before showing up at the dealer. That way you feel you know just as much about the kind of car you want as the salesman does. Shop around – Never go with an impulse buy. Go to a few different dealers and talk to a car-buying service and a broker-buying service to make comparisons.

Plan on negotiating the price. Dealers may be willing to bargain on their profit margin. This is the difference between the MSRP (Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price) and the invoice price. This also affects your monthly payments. Negotiating the price can save you big money.

You may even want to consider ordering the car that you want. This may cause delays, but if the car with the features you want is not on the lot, this may be your best option. Remember this is a big purchase and one that will probably need to last you for a while. Inversely however you may get a better deal from the dealership if you buy a car from their inventory. Just because they want to get rid of them.

If you are trading in your old car for a new one. Negotiate the price of the new one before letting them know about the old one. Once they know you want to trade-in, they know you have that much more money to spend and they will use that against you. Check the internet or the library for information on the value of your old car. Just to give you a ballpark idea. Remember that if you can, you should try to sell your car yourself. You will get much more money for it that way.

Bike Finance and Depreciation

With the depreciation on motorcycles being so enormous after they are driven off the showroom floor, the potential for a buyer owing more on their motorcycle loan than the bike is worth it quite high. Owing more on your bike than it is worth is often referred to as the world of “up side down”.

Many people finding themselves in this situation discover that financial lessons are sometimes the hardest and most expensive to learn. Motorcycle loans of more than 48 months (especially without a down payment) put you in the position of owing more than the value of the bike.

Let’s take a look at this phenomenon.

First, the interest calculation your lender uses can make a big difference in your situation, especially in the first 18 months. There are two primary interest calculations, pre-computed (combined with rule of 78) and simple interest.

Pre-computed interest combined with Rule of 78, is typically the worst situation for a buyer because most of the interest is paid in the first 24 months. Therefore, in the first 24 months little of the monthly payment has gone towards paying down principal. If a buyer wishes to sell or trade in the motorcycle within this timeframe they will likely find themselves owing more than the bike is worth. Statistics show that the average owner trades in every 18-24 months.

Simple interest on the other hand, is much more favorable for buyers since interest accrues on the balance of the loan. However, buyers that extend their loans for greater than 48 months can still find themselves up side down with simple interest. This is especially true if a down payment is not made. The reason this occurs is that the motorcycle depreciates faster than the principal is paid; leaving the balance owed to the lender to be more than the bike can be sold for.

A common view that many people have is that they will just surrender their motorcycle to the lender if they are caught in an “up side down” position. If you are considering this option don’t! Your worries do not just end after your bike is surrendered or repossessed; in fact they are just beginning. The lender will sell your bike at an auction for much less than it is worth. You will still owe the difference between the amount you owed on your loan and the amount the motorcycle sold for at auction. So if you owe $5000 and the bike sells for $1500, you still are responsible for owing the lender $3500. To make it worse lenders may tack on hefty auction fees which you will owe as well. So the net result is that you are now responsible for making monthly payments on a bike you can no longer ride.

So what steps can you take to prevent from being caught “up side down”?

1. Find a lender that uses simple interest. Avoid lenders that use pre-computed / Rule of 78 interest calculations.

2. Always try to put money down on your purchase.

3. Try to avoid motorcycle loans that extend past 36 months.

Monday 6 October 2008

Making The Figures Add Up

I got asked a question today about the sub prime motor and thought I would share it here.
The question was along the lines of "How can the finance company know who is going to pay and who isnt going to pay"

Well this is quite interesting because, we don't. What we do know, using our existing data is that if we lend to 100 customers aproximately 20 will not pay. So this raises an interesting question about pricing and rate for risk etc.

In the old days there would be a model for offering a "rate for risk" plan. Oh yes, the concept sounds good - get the people who are higher risk to pay more, however, it is totally flawed. This is because, you only make money if people pay you back (end of). If the higher risk customers dont pay, it makes no difference what "rate for risk" price you made. The other thing is that the customers more likely to pay will be less likely to take the higher rate, therefore making the overall "rate for risk" top heavy with desperate customers who have no intention to pay.

So, then how does it work in practice? Well, in essence its very straight forward. Remember the 80 will pay and the 20 will not?, well the 80 who pay, have to provide enough profit to make up the shortfall from the 20 that dont pay, hence the rates being higher in sub prime lending. Sure you will get some return on repossessions of vehicles of those 20 non payers, however, the cost of collecting on those accounts, sale costs and legal action etc. will swallow much of this up.

Therefore I would ask that for those righteous people who believe that these customers are getting "ripped off" think about it a little more. Heres an analogy, if your wanting to grow 100 tomato plants, you dont plant 100 seeds - you know that some wont make it, so you compensate for that.

i hope this makes things a little more easier to understand

Thursday 2 October 2008

Sub Prime credit crises in a nutshell



High-Risk Customer: Gee, I’d like to buy a house, but I haven’t saved any money for a down payment and I don’t think I can afford the monthly payments. Can you help me? Mortgage Broker: Sure! Since the value of your house will always go up, we don’t need down payments anymore!
________________________________________


Mortgage Broker: And we can give you a really, really low interest rate for a few years. We’ll raise it later, okay?
High-Risk Customer: Sure. Ummm…there’s one other thing — my employer is a real prick and might not verify my employment. Would that be a problem?
Mortgage Broker: Nope — we can get you a special “Liar’s Loan” and you can verify your own employment and income!
________________________________________


High-Risk Customer: You guys are awesome! You’re really willing to work with guys like me.
Mortgage Broker: Well, we don’t actually lend you the money. A bank will do that. So we don’t really care if you repay the loan. We still get our commission.
High-Risk Customer: Wow! Let’s get started!
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A Few Weeks Later, at the Bank…


Banker: I’d better get rid of these crappy mortgage loans. They’re starting to stink up my office. Thankfully, the really smart guys in New York will buy them and perform their financial magic! I’ll call them right away!
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Let’s See What the Smart Guys are Doing…


Investment Banker Boss: Phew! We’d better get rid of these shitty mortgages before they start attracting flies.
Investment Banker Underling: But who would buy this crap, boss?
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Investment Banker Boss: I’ve got it! First we’ll create a new security and use these crappy mortgages as collateral. We’ll call it a CDO (or maybe a CMO). We can sell that CDO to investors and promise to pay them back as soon as the mortgages are paid off.
________________________________________

Investment Banker Underling: But crap is crap, isn’t it, boss? I don’t get it.
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Investment Banker Boss: Sure! Individually, these are pretty crappy loans, but if we pool them together, only some of them will go bad — certainly not all of them. And since housing prices always go up, we really have very little to worry about.
Investment Banker Underling: I still don’t get it.
________________________________________


Investment Banker Boss: The new CDO will work like this: it’ll be made up of three slices or tranches and we’ll call them:
• The Good
• The Not-So-Good
• The Ugly
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Investment Banker Boss: If some of the mortgages fail, as surely some might, we’ll promise to pay investors holding the “Good” tranche first. We’ll pay the “Not-So-Good” investors second, and the “Ugly” investors last.
________________________________________

Investment Banker Underling: I’m starting to get it. And because the “Good” investors have the least risk, we’ll pay them a lower interest rate than the other guys, right? The “Not-So-Goods” will get a better interest rate and the “Ugly” guys will get a nice fat interest rate.
________________________________________

Investment Banker Boss: Exactly. But wait — it gets better. We’ll buy bond insurance for the “Good” tranche. If we do that, the rating agencies will give it a really good rating, in the AAA to A range. They’ll likely give the “Not-So-Good” tranche a BBB to B rating. We won’t even bother asking them to rate the “Ugly” tranche.
________________________________________

Investment Banker Underling: So you’ve managed to create AAA and BBB securities out of a pile of stinky, risky mortgage loans. Boss, you’re a genius!
Investment Banker Boss: Yes, I know.
Investment Banker Underling: Okay, now who are we going to sell the three tranches to?
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Investment Banker Boss: The assholes at the SEC won’t let us sell this stuff to widows and orphans, so we’ll sell them to our sophisticated institutional clients.
Investment Banker Underling: Like who?
Investment Banker Boss: Like insurance companies, banks, small towns in Norway, school boards in Kansas — anyone looking for a high-quality, safe investment.
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Investment Banker Underling: But surely nobody would buy the “Ugly” tranche, would they?
Investment Banker Boss: Of course not — nobody’s that stupid! We’ll keep that piece and pay ourselves a handsome interest rate.
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Investment Banker Underling: This is all great, but since we’re only using the smelly mortgages as collateral on an entirely new security, we haven’t really gotten rid of them. Don’t we have to show them on our balance sheet?
Investment Banker Boss: No, of course not! The guys who write the accounting rules allow us to set up a shell company in the Cayman Islands to take ownership of the mortgages. The crap goes on their balance sheet, not ours. The fancy name for this is “Special Purpose Vehicle”, or SPV.
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Investment Banker Underling: That’s great, but why would they let us do that? Aren’t we just moving our own crap around?
Investment Banker Boss: Sure, but we’ve convinced them that it’s vitally important to the health of the U.S. financial system that investors not know about these complex transactions and what’s behind them.